Wrath Wines Swan/828 Pinot Noir 2017

The name of the Wrath Wines Swan/828 Pinot Noir 2017, Monterey, refers to the two clones of pinot noir from which the wine is made. The grapes derive from the winery’s estate San Saba Vineyard that lies just at the feet of the Santa Lucia Highlands AVA. The wine, which aged 10 months in an assortment of French oak barrels, 40 percent new, displays every element that I find essential in great pinot noir, basically a seamless integration of the ethereal and the earthy. The color is an enchanting transparent ruby-garnet hue; ripe and spicy red and black currants and cherries unfold notes of cranberry and rhubarb, with hints of sandalwood and cinnamon bark lending a tantalizingly exotic effect; the texture, while supernally satiny, displays a slightly roughened surface, as if gently sanded by dusty tannins; on the palate, the black and red fruit flavors feel macerated and juicy, though balanced by incisive acidity and a deep loamy character; still, despite the grounding, this pinot noir displays high notes of a meadowy floral character and wild berries. 14.3 percent alcohol. Now through 2025 or ’27. Winemaker Sabrine Rodems produced 500 cases. Certified by SIP: Sustainability in Practice. Exceptional. About $35.

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